Aftelier Perfumes: The Berkeley Psychotherapist Who Wrote the Book on Natural Fragrance (Literally)

Mandy Aftel makes Aftelier perfumes by hand in Berkeley, California, using natural aromatic materials. Her work also extends to books, teaching and the Aftel Archive of Curious Scents, where visitors can explore the materials behind perfume.

From Psychotherapy to Perfume

In a 2023 interview, Aftel describes working as a psychotherapist with artists and writers before researching a novel about a perfumer. She collected old books about botanical scent materials, then took a perfume-making class. The novel went unfinished; the interest in making perfume stayed.

Writing remained part of the work. Essence and Alchemy, published in 2001, explores perfume’s history and making. Her other books include Scents & Sensibilities, about solid perfumes, and The Museum of Scent, which brings aspects of her archive to the page.

The Institute for Art and Olfaction named her the 2022 Septimus Piesse Visionary Award recipient.

What Aftelier Makes

Aftel describes her process as sourcing natural essences, then hand-blending and bottling in small batches. The range includes liquid perfumes, Eau de Parfum sprays, solids and body products.

The format matters as much as the scent. Aftelier’s sample page separates dab-on liquid perfumes, EDP sprays, solids and other products. A spray and a solid with the same scent name are different ways to wear it. Our perfume-strength guide explains why format and concentration deserve attention alongside the name.

Cepes and Tuberose: Earthy Flowers

Cepes and Tuberose is a useful place to explore Aftelier’s less conventional combinations. The maker lists porcini mushrooms, tuberose, bitter orange, benzoin, sandalwood and rosewood. Porcini is the shock: dried mushroom smells savoury, earthy and faintly like forest floor, and tuberose is one of the most opulent white flowers there is. Together they make a flower growing out of the soil, with the soil included.

Wearer responses show how much that combination matters. One reviewer enjoys a light tuberose with a clear mushroom impression. A second, who bought several from the house, finds mainly dirt and mushrooms and dislikes the result.

The Archive and the Books

The Aftel Archive of Curious Scents in Berkeley combines aromatic materials with antique books and objects used in scent’s history. It offers a way to explore individual essences as well as finished perfume. Use the archive’s own page for visit arrangements and tickets.

If you would rather begin with reading, Essence and Alchemy is a sensible starting point for the connection between materials, history and composition.

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Where to Try the Perfumes

Aftelier’s own site says its products are sold through the website and the archive. For something as odd as Cepes and Tuberose, a small vial first is sensible.

For another small-batch maker with a different palette, compare St. Clair Scents. The niche-house guide is useful for exploring other makers by their work instead of assuming every independent house shares the same style.